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Interview
With The Wizard Of Oz.
We
like to keep you updated on what is going at Alliance,
so we managed to grab our resident M.W. Giles Cooke
fresh off the plane from Australasia and pick his brains.
Aged 33 Giles has been with us now for nearly 10 years
and became only the fourth currently active Master of
Wine based in Scotland two years ago.
As
you would expect he is passionate, enthusiastic and
determined with his role at Alliance but he is also
extremely approachable with a unique sense of humour.
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We
started off by asking him about his whirlwind buying trip
downunder and what surprises lay in wait.
Given
the leaden skies and wintry weather back home in Edinburgh,
I guess the only surprise is that I came back! My most recent
trip was the longest that I've undertaken so far and was
a great experience. I started in Margaret River where we
source the marvelous Stella
Bella Wines. Margaret River is a beautiful place
and one that I hope I'll get the chance to take some customers
( and some staff if they're lucky) to over the next couple
of years. Then began a whistlestop tour of the great wine
regions of Australia (apologies to the Hunter Valley) including
Coonawarra, Mclaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Langhorne Creek,
Clare, Strathbogies, Yarra Valley and finally Tasmania before
I left to do a brief visit in New Zealand. Phew! It all
sounds very glamorous but by the 16th flight I was pretty
knackered.
What
is the outlook for Oz wines in general and Alliances range
in particular.
I'm
very much in favour of continuing to focus on what Alliance
is doing well at and, over the past 18 months, we've taken
two previously unheard of wineries (Two
Hands and Stella
Bella) and built up some really impressive sales
growth. We need to continue this focus and add some other
cutting edge producers to enable this to continue. The work
done on Hillsview
and Blewitt
Springs over the last couple of years has brought
immense results and I'm continually looking at improving
the presentation and varietals to keep the range current
- we're currently looking at bringing in a Viognier into
the Hillsview range which will provide some much needed
aromatics in the Aussie range.
More
than anything, I'm looking for wines that reflect the climate
in which they are grown. The notion of Terroir has often
been rubbished by the Australians but the relative weakness
of Aussie wines in the on trade suggests that more focus
on regions and "sense of place" is what's needed
to convince the consumer to trade up. My recent visit included
some amazing discoveries in Coonawarra and Tasmania and
whilst I can't say anything just yet, I'm very excited about
what's likely to come on in the very near future.
Have
you ever made a buying decision abroad in beautiful conditions
and then come back home and realised you were totally wrong
and what you actually tasted was crap?
These
days I'm probably over cagey when visiting a potential supplier
- this is generally a good trait but some of the top producers
need a little ego massaging and it's very difficult to do
that if you're still acting cool and undecided. No decisions
are ever made in the field - samples are ordered and then
tasted back at the office where I try to convince the rest
of the team that I was doing something more than just sun
bathing.
We
did once make an early morning visit to a Burgundy supplier
after an extremely heavy night which resulted in us buying
magnums of some dodgy Vosne Romanee that the supplier was
desperate to get rid of. Not very shrewd!
What
areas in the Alliances range do you feel are particularly
strong?
Well,
I'm bound to say Australia, but it is generally a strength
- and is one that will only get stronger. The improved packaging
on Sherwood Estate
has also made a big difference and last week's N.Z tastings
in London proved that we are on the right track there with
the wines and presentation much commented upon. France has
always been a strength for Alliance and will remain so but
I think we'll see a more focused
approach
with time spent developing other European countries to give
a more quality led feel. Whilst we have been successful
in South America, the range remains centered around budget
and mid priced varietals - this no doubt reflects where
both Argentina and Chile are at but I think that we all
have to hope that they make the next step towards consistently
delivering in the £5-10 mark.
Given
the choice as a long term partner do you go for a plain Jane
who shares your interest in all things fine or a blonde busty
stunner who only drinks Malibu with Irn Bru?
I'm
tempted to say that in my current position I'll settle for
either! Hmmmm, do I plumb the shallows by going for the
bimbo instead of the brains? No, I'll be enigmatic and pass
no comment - I don't want to deter anyone at the moment!
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